And then last night as I was reading Rick Steve's Europe Through the Back Door my focus shifted again with this passage:
And the place (Sicily) must lead Europe in litter. But there's a workaday charm here. If you like Italy for its people, tempo, and joy of living--rather than for its Botticellis, Guccis, and touristic icons---you'll dig Sicily (p.442)
And yes, it's true, even with it's dirty side, we dig Sicily. It's a bit raw, sometimes rough (especially the potholes), and, yes, dirty around some edges, but it's also authentic, vibrant, wild, and wonderful. It's not a spot for those looking for pristine,neatly packaged, European postcard moments. It's a place for uncovering and savoring the many layers of history and culture that have been slathered onto one small island. So now you have been forewarned. If you are considering a trip to Sicily, there will be garbage, but there is so much more here, too.